Glasgow Part 1

7th Sep
Today we headed off to Glasgow by train, suffering from the still very muggy weather. The Haymarket train station was an easy 5 minute walk from the B&B, followed by a quick 45 minute train journey, so we got to our Glasgow hotel in an hour. The Apex Hotel is almost brand new, and gives all its guests a rubber duck - shame we don't have a bath to use it in!

Kelvingrove Park - credit: S

We decided to go to the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, about 30 minutes walk away. We took advantage of the Kelvingrove Park to get some shade under the trees, giving us some more squirrel spotting opportunities. They are very active at this time of year, busily burying acorns - except for the one we were watching who failed to find a satisfactory hiding place after a dozen attempts of scratching in the soil under the oak trees. Great views of the gothic University buildings too.

The museum was disappointing. It is obviously lacking in funds for upkeep. Interactive exhibits were broken or missing and signs hadn't been updated to reflect obviously changed display items. Having said that, the exhibit on the Glasgow Style was worthwhile. The Glasgow Style was the local interpretation of continental Art Nouveau by people such as Charles Rennie Mackintosh. As an avid CRM fan, this was my first taste of his and his wife's work: furniture, clocks, and decorative panels.

Hanging Heads - credit:J

The main halls of the building were vast cavernous spaces filled with a variety of eclectic objects from elephants to spitfires, but we were rather taken by the Hanging Heads by Sophie Cave.

The Art Gallery had a great display of the Glasgow Boys work - a group of artists from the late 19th century who developed their own style, rebelling from the conservatives in the Royal Scottish Academy. It's a form of Impressionism, but different to that of the French artists.

Afternoon tea was welcome break before heading back to the hotel for a rest. We then invited our Wellington friends George and Megan over for a drink. They arrived in Glasgow on the 6th. It was great to catch up over a drink, then steak pie and mash at a nearby pub. Jeremy decided he wanted a chicken tikka masala, given it was invented in Glasgow, and it duly arrived accompanied by a pile of chips. Only in Scotland!

8th Sep

We awoke to pouring rain, but at least it banished the humidity and it was back to woolly clothes with a huge drop in temperature. The hotel only serves a basic continental breakfast, and it was actually nice not to start the day with stuffing ourselves to overflowing!

Due to our differing interests, Jeremy and I went our different ways in the morning. I took the subway from Cowcaddens to Hillhead by the university to visit the Mackintosh House at the Hunterian Art Gallery. The Cowcaddens station freaked me a little as the platform is narrow with trains on both sides. I like to stand well back from the platform edge in tube stations, but that just wasn't possible!

The Parlour - Credit: University of Glasgow

The Mackintosh House is a purpose built gallery, constructed to house the interiors of CRM's home, saved when the building was demolished in the 1960's. Charles and his wife extensively remodelled their Victorian terrace house in 1906, furnishing it with their own designed furniture, panels, light fittings and textiles. Four rooms have been reassembled as close as possible to the original: hall, dining room, parlour/study and main bedroom. The style is a glorious mix of simplified Art Nouveau, Arts and Crafts with some Art Deco thrown in (CRM's designs were a pre-cursor to some of the later Deco styles). Photos not allowed, so have downloaded a couple.

Dining room - Credit: Hunterian

The subway took me back to the Glasgow School of Art, designed by CRM when he was only a junior architect in a local firm. The design was entered anonymously into the design competition in 1890s, the anonymity perhaps explaining why a junior architect won. Unfortunately the building was significantly damaged by fire in 2014, so is currently covered in hoardings and scaffolding. Given the Willow Tea Rooms (has a CRM interior) is also boarded up for renovation, I need to come back in a couple of years to see what I've missed! I was still able to do a tour, based in the new School of Art building (opened 3 months before the other one burned). There are some beautifully detailed models that enabled the tour guide to discuss the history and feature of the original CRM building. The library was a real masterpiece and was completely destroyed in the fire. It will be recreated exactly, but it won't be quite the same - such a tragedy. The tour included viewing the GSA's collection of original CRM furniture, including an original of the famous Willow chair (designed for the Willow Tea rooms).

River Clyde - credit: J

Jeremy wandered the Clyde riverbank, past the woodlouse-like convention centre to the more spectacular Transport Museum building (which he didn't photograph due to the pouring rain). Seems like the inside of the museum didn't match the outside, but at least it was free!

Jeremy and I meet up for lunch (at a delightful placed named Laboratorio Espresso that did excellent coffee) and a walk down to The Lighthouse. This houses the Centre of Design and Architecture and is built into the old Glasgow Herald building designed by the firm CRM worked for (some say designed by him) and built in 1895. It has a viewing tower that provides pleasing views over the city rooftops. It also had yet another CRM display, with reproduction furniture and more models.

View from the Lighthouse - credit:S

Another brief respite at the hotel to rest weary feet, and it was off to the Marsala Twist Indian restaurant. Jeremy of course couldn't resist the camel curry, which had more than a passing resemblance to tough beef!

Edinburgh Part 2

5th Sep
Another waist expanding breakfast to start the day. I'm just loving the Scottish raspberries in season at the moment! Ginormous and full of flavour.

Dolly the sheep - Credit:J

Given my foot was still sore, Jeremy went off on his own to the National Museum of Scotland. He said it was impressive, with the story of the Scottish people done particularly well - a few lessons for Te Papa. There was also an emphasis on Scottish inventions, everything from the TV to Dolly the sheep, and with three Formula 1 cars, J was happy. The building itself is fairly impressive, especially the Great Hall, and has been subject to a £20 million renovation.

Meanwhile, I washed some socks. This was a consequence of believing the weather forecast before I left NZ. I was expecting it to be 12 to 18 degrees, but it has been 20 and now forecast to remain so for a few days, so I haven't packed the right clothes. Must go shopping for thin socks and t shirts tomorrow!

Later in the morning, I hobbled round the corner from the B&B to a small museum: a Georgian House built in 1796, renovated to reflect it as it was then. There have only ever been 6 owners, the last of which being the National Trust. This was also an excellent exhibit, with an informative and interesting video following the day in the life of the house's inhabitants, such as the 11 year old scullery maid working 16 hours a day 7 days per week for £8 per year.

State of the Art Rotisserie c1800 - credit: S

I particularly liked the "state of the art" kitchen with its open range, whose rotisserie is turned by a fan operated by the heat rising up the chimney. There was impressive amount of copperware on display, representing an equally impressive amount of work for the scullery maid, polishing them with nothing but lemon juice and sand. There was also a sugar loaf: a cone of compressed sugar that gave rise to pointy geographical features being called Sugar Loaf Mountain etc (think New Plymouth - I always wondered as a kid why its distinctive rock was called the Sugar Loaf).

The Water of Leith - Credit:J

After a rest stop at the B&B, we took our landlady's advice and walked down the hill to Dean Village on the banks of a small river called the Water of Leith for a riverbank stroll. We stopped at a rather eccentric cafe for afternoon tea, where the owner repeatedly informed us everything they use is compostable. Nice scones though. By this stage we were close to the Modern Art Gallery, so wandered in for a look. There was a small collection of Bridget Riley paintings - she of the eye popping black and white geometric Op Art from the 1960s. I particulate liked "Burn". There was a surrealist exhibition on but didn't really have the time for it, so made do with a surreal ice cream instead. This proved to be an exercise in the influence of colour on taste. The lemon sorbet was blue, the strawberry was green and the mint was red. Mine only tasted of strawberry if I closed my eyes!

After another rest to give my foot a break, we rendezvoused with our Eat Walk Edinburgh tour party - a German couple and a Canadian woman plus our guide. This was a 3 hour walking tour taking in parts of the Old and New Towns, stopping off to taste various goodies en route.

Stop 1: Hotel du Vin (ex lunatic asylum) for smoked salmon with capers, onion and a wedge of semi-soft boiled egg. The best smoked salmon I've had!

Demijohns - credit: J

Stop 2: Demijohns to taste and takeaway from their selection of liqueurs, vodkas etc. stored in large demijohn jars. Pick your poison and your preferred bottle shape/size and it's bottled for you.

Stop 3: the Scotch Malt Whisky Society rooms in an old Georgian terrace house with amazing views and spiral staircase with dome above. Tatties,neeps and haggis to accompany our whisky. They bottle their own from single casks purchased from all of Scotland's distilleries. Because the whisky doesn't then necessarily represent the distillery brand (most blend casks), the whisky is given a unique name  and labelled with a number identifying the distillery and cask. We had "Carefree Entertainment", 54.40 from Speyside. You can buy matching bottles of water from the same source that the distillery uses, complete with eye dropper for diluting the cask strength Whisky one drop at a time until you reach your optimum preference.

Scottish cheeses - credit: S

Stop 4: Calistoga restaurant for a selection of Scottish cheeses, and a glass of Scottish craft beer (or in my case non-Scottish red wine)

Stop 5: Ghillie Due (in a converted church) for posh cranachan which is a traditional dessert made with whipped cream, raspberries, honey, whisky and toasted oats. The posh version was served in a chocolate cup with shortbread on top.

En route, we learned of Burke and Hare the serial killers in 1828 who made money out of selling their victims bodies for medical dissection and Half Hangit Maggie who didn't die when hanged. She got a reprieve and as a result the words 'until dead' were added to the judge's sentencing from then on. Then there was the explanation of why the statue of King George IV shows him flashing a fair bit of leg. For his visit in 1822 as a PR stunt/political statement they dressed him in a kilt. Unfortunately, the kilt was way too short - a mini-kilt - and he had to wear a pair of pink tights to cover his legs. As he was very short and very rotund, it must have been quite a sight, and one not reflected in the statue or official portraits.

Very conveniently, the Ghillie Due was very close to our B&B, so an easy stroll home to bed.

6th Sep
The promised glorious sunshine didn't eventuate today, just cloudy humidity (close as the locals call it) but still hot enough to warrant shopping for a t-shirt (duly done). The wasp sting discomfort moved from pain to itching but walking was unimpeded, which was a good thing, as today's plan included a lot of walking.

Surgeons Hall Museum - credit: VisitScotland.com

First stop was another small National Trust property, Gladstone's Land, a 17th century high-tenement building with the rooms furnished to represent different eras. Disappointing compared to yesterday's Georgian House, although reflecting on how large families managed to live in tiny single rooms in these buildings was salutary.
Jeremy was keen to visit the Surgeons' Hall museum at the Royal College of Surgeons, founded in 1505, with its collection of "natural curiosities" started in 1699. It covered surgery techniques and tools, but most of the exhibit consisted of endless anatomical and pathology specimens. Jar after jar of gruesome objects, diseased or deformed. Initially interesting, soon becoming tedious, with a few down right stomach churning! I can categorically state that melanoma does seriously weird things to your liver! You are no doubt relieved that there were no photos allowed. Burke and Hare featured here too - Burke was hung and his skeleton preserved for display, and a book cover made from his skin as a lesson to others.

Easy way to Arthur's Seat (the lump) - credit: S

We took advantage of the very nice Surgeons' Hall's 1505 cafe to plan our ascent to Arthur's Seat over a coffee. This is the summit of the 250m hill just to the east of the city in Holyrood Park. I say hill, but it's craggy outcrops and the rocky lump of Arthur's seat definitely show mountain-like aspirations.

The planning made sure we went up the easy way and down the hard way, unlike all the poor Chinese tourists slogging up the steep zigzag rocky staircase! The views from the top were suitably spectacular - 360 degrees of Edinburgh and its environs. It was a shame that the weather forecasts here are lamentably inaccurate as we thought we'd saved the walk for the best day with the clearest view, but instead rain marred the distance. We could just see the Firth of Forth rail bridge, one of Scotland's engineering wonders.

Jeremy's Seat - credit: S

Jeremy discovered that he needs to practice panoramas with his new camera as the view finder view didn't match the results - we have 360 degrees of the rocks of the summit and lots of tourists, with the city and sky a tiny pale stripe at the top. Shame, as it was so windy on the top, I was too busy staying upright and away from the edge (I hate heights!) that I didn't take much either.

Salisbury Crags - Credit:S

We descended down past the Salisbury Crags where we got a great view of the castle. The predominant church spire is on a church on the Royal Mile that is one of many we saw that have been converted to other purposes, everything from theatres and youth hostels to government offices. I'm used to seeing conversions of small converted chapels/churches in rural areas, but not such a high number of large significant church buildings. We also got an aerial view of the new Scottish Parliament building, which must be an acquired taste, and Holyrood Palace, nicely traditional. The whole walk took under 2 hours, and it was great to get some real exercise.

Castle from Salisbury Crags - credit: J

The wind on the summit was actually a lovely change from the stifling closeness of the city, which was just as bad on our return as we walked back along the Royal Mile. We found ourselves outside the Crannachan and Crowdie, one of the Eat Walk morning tour stops. It sells traditional Scottish food, so bought a loaf of Brannock for breakfast on Islay.

The Last Drop - credit: S

Then a drink was in order, so we headed for The Last Drop pub in Grassmarket. This is where public executions took place, a major source of entertainment - 20000 people turned out for Burke's hanging. Legend has it The Last Drop is where the hangee was allowed a last tipple before the big event.

After a well deserved rest at the B&B, we went to a nearby pub/bistro called Teuchters for a not so cheap meal. The smoked mackerel and salmon starter was nice, but the main of sea bass and samphire (a type of seaweed by tastes more like salty beans) was disappointing. Jeremy had a flight of whiskys from lowland distilleries, one of which was recommended on output tour, but he decided it was too caramel for his taste. I had a go at a rhubarb and ginger gin - yum.

So that was Edinburgh...

Edinburgh Part 1

3rd Sep
The trip over was as gruelling as ever, although made more bearable by 5 hours of sleep in Singapore. All went reasonably smoothly until Heathrow where confusion over our bags and hassles swapping terminals created momentary stress. The final leg to Edinburgh was marred by delays and a temporarily lost suitcase (along with luggage for about a dozen other people on our flight). But we had great views of the Firth of Forth and Edinburgh city (castle and all) as we came in to land.

Edinburgh Castle from Princes Street - Credit: J

We arrived at our B&B mid afternoon, so after a revitalising shower, we wandered off up the main shopping street to get our bearings. We were surprised by the mild temperature, but the dark skies created the usual gloomy look that Scottish cities can have, with all the dark brooding stone. Sorted out mobile phone sims and ate at an authentic Scottish pizza restaurant before stumbling into bed at 7:30pm.




4th Sep

Pipeband-a-thon, Scott memorial - credit:S

We awoke to brilliant sunshine, and then started the day with a huge breakfast, partly because our body clocks told us it was dinner time and partly because it was delicious - stone fruit and fresh berries which we haven't seen since summer, followed by a cooked breakfast complete with haggis.

Feeling several kilos heavier, we headed off to the National Gallery to see an exhibition of impressionist paintings. The sunshine made such a difference to the cityscape - the glowering castle looked a little more cheerful and even the grotesque gothic monstrosity that is the Walter Scott memorial glowed golden in places, hinting at what it would be like if the dreaded black mould wasn't covering it.

We got our first taste of bagpipes as we approached the gallery. The Stockbridge pipe band was holding a "pipeband-a-thon": 6 hours of continuous pipe band music to raise money. Somehow bagpipes seem right in Scotland, and the usual strangled cat noises were quite tolerable! It helped that they played "proper" folk music, not bagpipe top 10 hits.

Our first squirrel sighting this trip - credit:J

We'd just started viewing the exhibition when all the lights went out. A power failure meant we all had to be evacuated, and with no one able to say how long it would last, we filled in some time shopping and squirrel spotting in the Princes Street Gardens. I know they're just tree rats, but so cute!

Under one end of the gardens is the Waverly Railway Station, where we'll be catching the train to Glasgow later in the week. The array of glass roofs was a bizarrely high tech sight amongst the old buildings and classic gardens.

Railway Station roofs - Credit: J

By now it was close to the start of the Monza F1 Grand Prix, and thanks to the power of Google, we'd located a pub called the Rose Street Brewery that was going to screen it. Mind you, the poor publican said he has no idea why the website lists it, but given there were 6 of us who turned up, he shouldn't complain too much as it certainly generated some business for him. It made a nice change, watching F1 with a group of like minded people, while supping Guinness/cider. The race wasn't that exciting, but the occasion was fun.

Bedecked Gallery - credit: S

Then it was back to the National Gallery, where normal service had been resumed. What a fabulous exhibition: chiefly focused on Daubigny, the father of impressionism, showing his influence on Monet and Van Gogh. The cross-pollination was evident with paintings of similar subjects/locations by the 3 artists hanging side by side. The chronology also highlighted the evolution of their styles, Even the advertising outside was wonderful with the classical stone columns bedecked with silk flowers.

We quickly toured the rest of the Gallery which has a surprisingly good collection of everything from Renaissance art to more impressionists. The highlight was stumbling across John Constable's "The Vale of Dedham". We'll be staying in Dedham later in the trip, purely because of JC's work, and although I'd seen photos of this painting, it was just so much more impressive in real life. Given I had no idea it was here in Edinburgh, it was a serendipitous moment that also gave us a taste of adventures yet to come.

Princes St Garden, Scott Memorial - credit:S

We finished the day by walking up the Playfair Steps to the Old Town, again past the gardens. By now, it was quite warm and lots of people were sunning themselves on the sloping lawn or playing frisbee and soccer.

The Old Town was a sorry sight. When we were last here in 1988, this was an atmospheric place with alleyways and fascinating little shops. Now it's a tourist hell with nothing but cafes, bars and tacky souvenir shops selling everything tartan, shortbread, cheap Celtic jewellery and highland cow onesies. Our B&B hostess says the locals call the Old Town "the dark side" these days, and avoid it. We did have one highlight - when we popped into St Giles Cathedral, there was an organ recital underway. What an impressive sound an organ is at full blast!

St Giles - credit: S

We returned to the Rose Street Brewery for an early dinner, as it was one of the few places we've seen that has classic British pub food (sausage and mash, scampi and chips). Most places have either gone gastro (with prices to match) or foreign (tacos, Thai, spare ribs).

And then it was bedtime - that is, until I stood on a wasp while closing the curtains. Much pain, much medication, not much sleep!